Topp class storage wines from Alto Piemonte

Today we introduce you to Alto Piemonte, the part of the Piedmont that is very close to Switzerland; flanked laterally by Valle d'Aosta and Lombardy. Here, the Sesia river splits a wine-growing region in two, consisting of several niches, stretching from the tip in the far north of the region to the area around Novara. 

Although the volcanic imprint in its many shades recurs throughout almost the entire area identified as Alto Piemonte, there are some that bear only minimal, if any, traces of porphyry. This is the case in the Ossola Valley, the birthplace of the DOC Valli Ossolane. There are only six producers in the Ossola Valley. They are young, both in terms of age and wine history.

The times of volcanic activity in Alto Piemonte are hard to imagine is. We know that 280 million years ago there was a super volcano in Valsesia. Pangaea still existed and we had to wait another 50 million years for the first dinosaurs to appear. It was an explosion, the most devastating, equal to the power of 250 atomic bombs, capable of throwing an unimaginable amount of debris into the atmosphere. That was the end of the activity of the super volcano Valsesia, which was ‘catapulted’ and folded onto a horizontal plane as a result of the collision of the plates in successive eras, making its layers superficially visible today. Today, the super volcano of Valsesia still defines the identity of an area that is invaluable not only geographically, but also - and above all - viticulturally. 

Alto Piemonte remains one of the world's most glorious, unremarkable but fast-growing regions. Delicate and transparent wines communicate the essence of the location in the handful of villages that make up this series of small appellations in northern Italy. Many of the domains are quite small: some have just 1 or 3 hectares. 

Wines from Alto Piemonte are full of finesse, are euphorically beautiful like Nebbiolos and possess impeccable balance. While warmer temperatures and drier summers push alcohol levels to the limit in other areas, this is not often a problem in Alto Piemonte. Rain is also a lot more common here to keep the vineyard at its best.  The altitude of the vineyards, cooler temperatures and acidic soil make it rare to find wines that exceed 14% alcohol content. At night, temperatures in Alto Piemonte drop to around 15 degrees, allowing the grape to cool perfectly while in Barolo and Barbaresco the nights are barely below 25 degrees. And ... I speak from experience because I lived there for six years. 

A little historical background

Given the fame of Barolo and Barbaresco, readers may find it hard to imagine that Alto Piemonte was the most famous appellation for Nebbiolo-based wines in northern Italy in the 1800s. These vineyards once covered more than 40,000 hectares. Today, that number is closer to 700. At the turn of the century, Phylloxera set in, followed by a devastating frost in 1905 that wiped out many vineyards. Over time, the younger generations moved to the cities, such as Biella where the wool industry was in full swing or Turin where the Fiat was their haven. Here, wine producers could find more stable work. The spread of industrialisation gradually swallowed up the countryside.

A few historic wineries remained, but Alto Piemonte was mostly a backward area. But in the late 1990s, things began to change, interestingly with investment from foreigners. Perhaps because they could see the region without prejudice and without the burden of history, these visionaries were open to understanding the area's latent potential.

In recent decades, a whole new generation of young owners and winemakers returned to their abandoned territories and rediscovered the potential of vineyards that previous generations were forced to abandon. Their passion and drives are immense to bring their domains to the international market. 

BOCA Doc 

Descending south from the Ossola Valley Vale, you first encounter the Boca area, on the eastern bank of the Sesia. Here, the appellation calls for Nebbiolo - known locally as Spanna - Vespolina and Uva Rara. The appellation's 10 producers cultivate a few handfuls of hectares on acid soil with an entirely volcanic matrix. 

Boca is fragrant, structured and lively.  Boca has red berry, mineral and white pepper flavours against an elegant backbone of polished tannins and firm acidity.

Definitely try to enjoy the Boca from producer Podere ai Valloni - Vigna Cristiana. This graceful and fragrant wine has enticing scents of rose, aromatic herbs, flint, red berries and culinary spices. The elegant palate delivers red cherry, strawberry, white pepper and star anise alongside bright acidity and firm, refined tannins. Boca lies at the highest point in Alto Piemonte, just over 500 metres above sea level. 

From Boca and Gattinara come the nectars that most preserve a particular quality of subtle, sleek elegance. Wines of the palate, wines made to enchant with delicacy. With the exception of pure Vespolina, which is quite fashionable here. Although it again represents the style of elegance now absorbed by producers - as well as by the vineyards - Vespolina is recognisable by its spicy, intense, clear timbre and its pronounced harshness, delineated in a rough, sharp tannin.

Check out Boca Vigna Cristiana from Podere ai Valloni on our website www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be

GATTINARA Docg 

Gattinara is the best known of all the wines from Alto Piemonte. It is part of a tradition dating back to the ancient Romans. In the late 1800s, there were as many as 1482 vineyards. Again, only a few vintners remained after phylosera. 

Temperature variations create complexity, intense aromas and spicy acids, while cooling winds protect the grapes 100%.

The soil in Gattinara consists of sedimentary rocks of Monte Rosa, granite and iron-rich porphyry of volcanic origin; unlike the Barolo and Barbaresco zones, there is no limestone and no clay here.

Gattinara lies at the heart of an area strongly influenced by the ancient super volcano that collapsed 280 million years ago. The reddish, rocky soils of the appellation have high acidity, which makes for firm but silky tannins. These soils also impart a distinct mineral feel that evokes iron. 

In the vineyards at 320- 480 metres above sea level, significant temperature variations occur between day and night during the growing season. These temperature fluctuations create complexity, intense aromas and spicy acids, while cooling winds keep the grapes intact.

Production regulations stipulate that Gattinara wines must contain at least 90 per cent Nebbiolo. Although producers may blend small amounts of Vespolina and Uva Rara, most use only Nebbiolo. Our Gattinara producer Cantina Del Signore opts for 100 per cent Nebbiolo.

A classic Gattinara has aromas of red berries and violets, fresh acidity, energetic minerals and tight, polished tannins.

Check out Gattinara Cantina del Signore on our website www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be

BRAMATERRA Doc 

Bramaterra almost mirrors - albeit slightly more southerly - the Boca area. This is a fairly extensive area with a wide variety of microclimates and soils, ranging from rocky and porphyry to sand, clay and gravel, with the presence of carbonate and calcareous rocks. Some segments consist of rocks and soils with a distinctive red colour, mainly due to the abundance of manganese in them. Bramaterra is an appellation that produces complete wines. Complete because they synthesise elegance and character, expressed not so much in power but rather in a penetrating acuity. Soon we will have a Bramaterra of grand elegance in our range. 

GHEMME Docg

Opposite Gattinara on the other side of the Sesia river is Ghemme, where viticulture predates the ancient Romans. Ghemme is often compared to its better-known neighbour Gattinara, but while there are similarities between the two wines, there are fundamental differences that set them apart.

Ghemme is made in the municipality of Ghemme and part of nearby Romagnano Sesia. The vineyard area of the appellation is about half that of Gattinara, about 125 hectares. Ghemme's vineyards are generally lower-lying than those in Gattinara. They lie between 250 and 300 metres above sea level.

Unlike Gattinara and other areas in Alto Piemonte, where usually one soil type predominates, the soils in Ghemme are incredibly complex. We also find some clay in the higher elevations, and some porphyry here and there. 

The soils owe their complexity to the Monte Rosa glacier, which lies on the border of Italy and Switzerland. The retreat of the glacier into what is now the growth zone of the Ghemme has deposited rocks such as granite, quartz and other pebbles that break down after the winter rains and take on a sandy consistency.

The Ghemme soils are perfect for Nebbiolo, and the increased focus on Piedmont's flagship wine has been a significant improvement in the area in recent years. Today, most producers make Ghemme exclusively from Nebbiolo, although they are also allowed by the disciplinaria (to be described as the law book on wine production) to use up to 15 per cent Vespolina and/or Uva Rara.

A typical Ghemme is elegantly structured and fragrant. Ghemme wine offers sensations of rose, violets, forest fruits, spices and minerals against a backbone of lively acidity and refined tannins. Aging adds further complexity.

Check out Ghemme by Paride Chiovini on our website www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be 

Lessona Doc

Until the early 1900s, there were about 200 hectares of vineyards in Lessona; now there are just 20. The rest is overgrown with forests. Winemaking in Lessona has recently been revived.

Lessona's wines exude elegance, thanks to the mineral-rich yellow sand and the altitudes of the vineyards, which range between 222 and 359 metres above sea level. They offer bouquets of roses and red forest fruits that continue on the palate, along with a pronounced minerality. 

Lessona wines have an almost ethereal character, but noble tannins and lively acidity provide serious ageing potential.

Producers can make Lessona exclusively with Nebbiolo, but they can also add up to 15 per cent Vespolina, a ‘descendant’ of Nebbiolo, and/or Uva Rara, a common blend grape.

Soon we will also have a Lessona in our range. 

COSTE DELLA SESIA Doc 

The controlled designation of origin ‘Coste della Sesia’ without is reserved for red or rosé wines obtained from grapes from vineyards consisting of at least 50% Nebbiolo vines.

In the typology ‘white’ to white wine obtained with 100% Erbaluce grapes.The registered designation of origin ‘Coste della Sesia’ followed by one of the following is reserved for wines obtained from grapes from vineyards comprising at least 85% of the following grape varieties: ‘Coste della Sesia’ Nebbiolo or Spanna; ‘Coste della Sesia’ Croatina; ‘Coste della Sesia’ Vespolina.

The area is a composite region, with important differences of climatic, pedological and morphological aspects. With structures ranging from clay to sand, granite boulders and porphyry. This territorial inhomogeneity can be seen throughout the area and in the two provinces of the Costa della Sesia, one around Vercelli, the other around Biella.

Check out our top wines Centovigne and Castellengo from the winery Il Centovigne on our website www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be 

SIZZANO Doc 

Sizzano is a wine with deep historical roots loved by Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour, who compared its bouquet to that of the famous Borgogna and loved pairing it with finanziera, one of Piedmont's typical Piedmontese dishes. Recognised as a DOC since 1969.

Sizzano’ and ‘Sizzano’ Riserva must be obtained from grapes of the following grape varieties in the following proportionshighlighted below: Nebbiolo (Spanna) from 50% to 70%; Vespolina and Uva Rara (Bonarda novarese) alone or together from 30% to 50%. Non-aromatic red grapes may also be used for this production up to a maximum of 10%.

Only in the municipality of Sizzano may Sizzano DOC wine be produced. Viticulture in Sizzano is developed on the eastern side of the valley of the Sesia, a long and regular hill that develops along a north-south axis: a predominantly clayey plateau divided into two hilly strips, with hills formed by ancient fluvioglacial deposits from the Pleistocene (c.400,000 years) with a heterogeneous composition. Deep, clayey soils in the upper part (the flat part), more gravelly and looser along the western slopes, gravelly material in depth.

The colour is ruby red with garnet highlights. Bouquet: vinous, distinctive, with slight hints of violets. The palate is dry, juicy, harmonious. Maturation: ‘Sizzano’ 22 months of which 16 are in wood. ‘Sizzano’ Riserva 34 months of which 24 on wood.

See our page Sizzano by Paride Chiovini, on our website www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be 

Wine regions in Alto Piemonte that we have not described but are interesting: Colline Novaresi which are the hills around the city of Novara and Fara.