Dolcetto of the Clavesana Cooperativa: the final harvest result of 200 small producers
In Knack magazine of 9 February 2022, an article by Bruno Van Spauwen on Dolcetto was published. Indeed Dolcetto has nothing to do with "dolce".
The name Dolcetto refers to the vineyards in the Dogliani area and to the hard work of those who have the drive to raise the image of Dolcetto many steps higher.
It is very necessary to make a distinction between those who are producers with a focus on export and therefore belong more to a purely family-run business, including those who do the work in the cantina and the vineyard and those who have to earn their daily bread by selling their harvest. So in a concrete way, they also have to watch over the harvest day and night.
The Dogliani that is in the spotlight here is the end product of 200 small wine producers who unite in a cooperative to make the difference together in one coordinated strategy and master plan for production.
The enologist of Clavesana Cooperative has no other function than that of being the guarantor of the idem ditto structure of Barbaresco - Produttori del Barbaresco - which achieved great success thanks to the reviews of Jancis Robinson, Decanter, Antonio Galloni & Co. and others, and where 20 families get their daily bread on the table thanks to the aforementioned names and so many other journalists highlighting the Barbaresco of Produttori del Barbaresco.
Example: Ana Maria Abbona has a production of no less than 85,000 bottles, Pecchenino 130,000 bottles. This does make a huge difference. Certainly neither of them are in the vineyard themselves to bring in the entire harvest, to do all the work in all seasons.
We believe in the Clavesana Cantina and especially in the finished product.
Why?
Karina Imschoot of Made In Piedmont Wines visited this cantina 5 years ago, so she followed the evolution for 5 years, and observed the evolution of the wines with an eye-nose-taste for 5 years. Not only this: we observed how this cooperative - just like Produttori di Barbaresco - has the taste to grow. Only they are far from being a Barbaresco wine and do not have as their close neighbour Angelo Gaja who offers them a push in his numerous conferences on national territory.
Cantina Clavesana is a cooperative association founded on 27 April 1959 (2019 was the 60th anniversary of its foundation), thanks to the choice of a group of brave winegrowers who wanted to join forces to give these hills a future, face difficulties together and find new market opportunities for Dolcetto wine and its grapes.
Cantina Clavesana represents a path of evolution and continuous growth, from 1959 until today. Founded as a social and cooperative winery (and remaining true to its nature), today Clavesana is the leading producer of Dolcetto and Dogliani DOCG in the Langhe.
From the first 32 founding members they have grown over the years and today there are about 200 of them. Some 320 hectares of vineyards in the hills, between 200 and 500 metres above sea level are worked day by day by their members. Their daily job is their passion: with the Dolcetto as their visceral link, they have been able to enrich the biodiversity of the hills and make diversification of production a strong point.
The history of the Clavesana cooperative is a story of men and women who have worked honestly and seriously for themselves and for others, overcoming many difficulties and putting aside the interests of the individual in favour of dialogue and collective growth.
With the cooperation of the most experienced producers, Cantina Clavesana has decided to pay special attention to its young members. In 2018, the Consulta Giovani (Youth Council) was established, a permanent working and comparison table, to grow and train together, to deal with new market demands and to manage change.
Once again, all are united, proud to look ahead to ensure intergenerational continuity and a better future for these hills, to increase biodiversity and diversify production, to flank the Dolcetto with other products and to face new challenges on international markets.
This is that "other" Dolcetto from Dogliani that you have not yet tasted.
Link: Dogliani Mito 2018
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