Alto Piemonte: from history to present and the plus factor of the climate issues

Did you know that Piedmont is the only region without IGTs? Yes, the Piedmont appellations are DOC and DOCG only and exclusively. An asset for this region that contains a true kaleidoscope of macro and micro wine regions with an undisputed vocation. Conditional appellations and, often, similar grape varieties. And yet, when we talk about Piedmontese wine, the neophyte tends to focus on a few well-known areas, all too often leaving out some of the most interesting micro areas of the entire Italian wine scene.

Each certified denomination, a piece of diversity

Such is the case in Alto Piemonte, a collection of wine-growing areas with centuries of history and unique charm. It is no coincidence that the corrector on my smartphone, in an amusing and exhaustive play on words, suggests Altro Piemonte (Other Piedmont) by simply typing Alto Piemonte. Yes, because Alto Piemonte has as many denominations in its ranks as there are in Langa. Denominations that, in my opinion, deserve even more attention than they have been getting in recent years. I am talking, of course, about: Gattinara (Docg), Ghemme (Docg), Lessona (Doc), Bramaterra (Doc), Boca (Doc), Sizzano (Doc), Fara (Doc), Valli Ossolane (Doc) and the recent Docs Coste della Sesia and Colline Novaresi.

Jewel born from the explosion of the super volcano

An area of volcanic origin, created more than 280 million years ago, when the super volcano exploded there with such force that it changed the climate of the entire planet for many years. Its huge caldera today coincides with the valleys of the Sesia and Sessera rivers, between the provinces of Novara, Vercelli and Biella in the Upper Piedmont region. Another fundamental event that determines the geological and orographic dynamics of the area is the collision, about 50 million years ago, between the African and European plates, which gave rise to the Alps and brought to the surface the entire subterranean structure of the Alps.

An area that has survived

Two important geologists date the creation of the moraine hills flanking the course of the Sesia to 2 million years ago, thanks to deposits left by the ice and alluvial runoff from Monte Rosa. Like many Italian wine-growing regions that were traditionally suitable for viticulture and thus had a large number of vineyards, Alto Piemonte unfortunately suffered the disastrous effects of first phylloxera and then the abandonment of the countryside. Thus, we went from 40,000 hectares of vineyards at the end of the 19th century to 600 hectares after the war, in an area that alone yielded more than the entire current wine production of Piedmont. Today, the total area of vineyards in Alto Piedmont (including the 6 hectares and slightly more of Carema) does not exceed 400 hectares.

History of a renaissance of wine and tourism

Today Alto Piemonte is experiencing a renaissance of sorts, supported by historical realities with renewed foresight and, above all, by young winemakers who have understood the impressive potential of these areas for the production of great wines and, in particular, excellent Nebbiolo.

Wines that honor the integrity of tradition and yet are absolutely contemporary thanks to their ability to achieve complexity and finesse and maintain a good balance between structure and dynamism.

A drinkable wine that is as agile as it is never predictable, thanks to the natural vocation of these areas for the clear and fresh elegance of the mountains and the volcanic and marine minerality of the different matrices of these soils. More careful agronomic management and greater oenological awareness, together with climate change (which on average produces very positive results here), are leading to a series of productions of great quality and contemporaneity, which are capturing the interest of enthusiasts and the media in Italy and elsewhere.

A journey through biodiversity

What may have seemed a lack is now an added value of the Langhe itself, namely the sporadic nature of the vineyards, in terms of context in an agricultural landscape where the forest is once again dominant and monoculture is not in force.

A biodiversity matched by a wealth of varieties of agronomic interpretations that offer unique suggestions, such as the Topìa forms of agriculture (with the famous Pilùn) and the Maggiorina di Boca, in many cases arranged on the "old" terraces. An agricultural landscape in which the anthropization has gone through contrasting phases, but which today, despite the difficulties of viticulture, often on the border of the heroic, has an undisputed potential. Another peculiarity of Alto Piemonte that should certainly be mentioned is the pedoclimate, where most vineyards enjoy the protection of the Alps and the cool mountain streams that bring relief to the vines in summer and keep them healthy. What could be a problem is the rainfall, which is certainly much higher than in the lower part of Piedmont, but the very well-draining soil helps to balance the plants of mostly autochthonous varieties, including clones and biotypes of Nebbiolo called Spanna, Picotendro and Prunent here.

How a special Nebbiolo is born

The vegetation cycle of the Nebbiolo grape, which is already very long in these particular climatic and pedo-climatic conditions, is further lengthened, delaying the harvest by 2-3 weeks, in comparison to what happens in the Langhe. The location of the vineyards in a deliberate (southern) orientation, able to take advantage of a long period of irradiation and of the strong temperature difference between day and night, as well as the possibility for the vines to sink their roots into a loose soil, rich in skeleton, very poor in organic matter, but rich in fundamental minerals and with a very high acidity, are all determining factors for the quality of the grapes used for the production of the wines of Alto Piemonte and, in particular, of Nebbiolo.

The four fundamental phases

However, this archipelago of micro-denominations in the magnum sea of the Italian viticultural panorama can only be understood by visiting the area and tasting the multitude of soil compositions, which can be volcanic, disintegrated granite, moraines of ancient glaciers, sandy, rich in porphyry, more or less clayey and silty, rich in limestone and pebbles with a proportion of minerals and skeleton. More specifically, one could divide the area into 4 areas with

Ghemme, Sizzano and Fara which see their vines rooted in soils of predominantly morainic origin, with emergent pebbles and a large mineral substrate similar to that of Carema (an extraordinary area outside the whole of Alto Piemonte designations only at consortium level);
Boca with very acidic, volcanic soils, with an important porphyry matrix and very rich in skeleton; Gattinara has finer soils, poor in organic material and rich in rock; Bramaterra and Lessona have areas similar to those of Gattinara with a volcanic matrix and others with a higher percentage of clay and sand, in some cases very rich in limestone and marine fossils, in addition to recurrent porphyry; in Val d'Ossola we find mainly soils formed by ancient alluvial deposits divided into areas with a high clay component and areas richer in skeleton, sand and silt. In short, also in terms of soil and subsoil, Alto Piemonte offers a wide and varied spectrum of possibilities.

Gattinara has finer soil, poor in organic matter and rich in rock;

Bramaterra and Lessona have areas similar to Gattinara with a volcanic matrix and others with a higher percentage of clay and sand, in some cases very rich in limestone and marine fossils, as well as recurrent porphyry;

in Val d'Ossola you will find mainly soils formed by ancient alluvial deposits divided into areas with a high clay component and areas richer in skeleton, sand and silt. In short, Alto Piemonte also offers a wide and varied spectrum in terms of soil and subsoil.

In the plate and in the glass: the combinations

In terms of wine tourism, it is essential to know and appreciate the combination of wine and local gastronomy, starting with rice, grown in the rice fields around the cities of Novara and Vercelli (among the main varieties: Carnaroli, Arborio, Vialone Nano, the varieties Venere and Artemidi, as well as aromatic black rice), used for the preparation of Paniscia (in its Novara variety) or Panissa (in its Vercelli variety. The cheeses are also a source of pride for these regions and Novara is the capital of Gorgonzola. In Val d'Ossola and Valsesia you can taste tome, taleggio, goat cheese and even the famous Bettelmatt, typical of Val Formazza and Valle Antigorio.

The surrounding forests are rich in chestnuts and mushrooms. Among the most specialties are fried frogs and Tapulone, a recipe of minced donkey meat. And then there is the more typical Polenta Concia. We are still in Piedmont, so there are also many typical sweets and cookies. These particularities make Alto Piemonte a perfect destination for wine tourists who want to enjoy fine wines, immersed in a breathtaking landscape and with the possibility of pairing each glass with dishes rich in traditional flavors that are never anachronistic.

What is the most expressive Organic Nebbiolo wine of Alto Piemonte?  Nebbiolo from ex Volcanic soil - Gratus 2018

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