Alto Piemonte: the other Nebbiolo region booming in 2019! Discover why
Posted on: 16-01-2019 om 07:54:16
| Karina Imschoot
Nebbiolo's by Barolo and Barbaresco winegrowers get all the press attention but what about the Nebbiolo's from that other region: Alto Piemonte?
About that region, where it all started for the Nebbiolo grape, there is only little communication. Time to change this, that's our conviction. During various trips - from March 2018 to November 2018 - I have crossed this area from north to south, from east to west, tasted their range at winegrowers and saw differences in many areas. Alto Piemonte on stage with resounding applause: that's what we're working on!
Nebbiolo terroir in Alto Piemonte
Is Alto Piemonte a newcomer? Don't be interested! Vines have been grown since the 12th century and in the 16th century there were just 40,000 hectares of vineyards (DOP's then). Compare this with 2054 hectares now in Barolo and 728 hectares in Barbaresco. Oidium, peronospora, phylloxera and the devastating hailstorm of August 1905 are the issues they don't want to hear as a reminder in Alto Piemonte because everything was destroyed. The winegrowers were forced to look for a job, mostly in the textile industry, because the nearby Biella was then the Mecca for those who were looking for work after the dramas in the winegrowing of Alto Piemonte.
Why is this terroir an exception of size for the wine lover?
During my travels in the last 9 months - so focus on March until the end of November 2018 - I have visited with almost every winegrower their vineyards of all the wines they produce. Between the Nebbiolo's of Enrico Crola and the Nebbiolo's of Centovigne lies a world of difference and you can taste that in all its intensity. What makes the difference with the Nebbiolo's of the Alba region? Larger temperature differences between day and night, a soil structure that is very diverse ranging from sandy to volcanic with (here we will do in-depth research during our event of February 1, 2019 where you get a very good picture of why the differences are current), the Alps that are closer, a growing season that is longer, and rain that is present more frequently. Just to give you an idea: some of our producers have twice as much rain compared to the Barolo region. The alcohol percentage is also somewhat lower.
Focus on knowledge and skills
Of the original 40,000 hectares, barely 600 hectares remain. Many vineyards are also located in a forest which does not make it any easier. This has to do with what happens between the past and the present. How the region tackles this to make the forests back to vineyard is also an issue that we will discuss in more detail on February 1, 2019. Also what is the result of inheritance issues and how this will affect future generations and the vintages of wines that are put on the market. Check out our exclusive tasting of Alto Piemonte: https://www.madeinpiedmont-wines.be/tastings/alto-piemonte-tasting-event----1--februari-2019----lede.
For example, one of the domains that we represent has experienced a huge transformation, Centovigne of Castello Castellengo. From 0 ownership to vineyards, they have been transferred to 6.5 hectares by acquiring small plots of land, scattered here and there, from heirs of former producers. How this all worked is an issue that we discuss "live" with explanation from the wine producer. So CentoVigne went from 0 to a power armour and this according to a system where tradition and especially the modern way of communication ensures that their wines get a boost.
What are the wines of Alto Piemonte worth after a stay in your wine cellar?
For the wines purchased now - I quote those that have at least 13% alcohol, are bottled in another dimension toz of the past and contain either 100% Gattinara, 100% Ghemme or a blend with Vespolina, Uva Rara and Croatina, I can say that this is a very safe choice. We base ourselves on wines that we have been uncorked from at least 30 years old (event organized for experts wines from region Piedmont Belgium-Netherlands-Scandinavia). Between then and the present there was an evolution that only means a very big advantage for you, the one who wants to keep the wines for later events. Whether the other region of Nebbiolo from Langhe that is large to be successful makes it so easily accessible to the wine lover in the year 2019 is another matter. Alba is a city where wealth reigns, big money is to promote wines and Ghemme, Gattinara, are always present in the "wake". Those who are present on February 1, 2019 in our tasting room for a 2.5 hour session will immediately experience what Alto Piemonte is all about: "Nebbiolo's and Co" without hairdressers. The Co's are among others Sizzano, Ghemme, Vespolina, Greco Novarese etc....
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